Stories
Jarod John Leonard: rock and roll, made quietly
Two friends who met in an Xbox lobby, a debut collection called '1974' and a very high bar for materials. Jarod John Leonard arrives in Europe for the first time, at ANSH46.
Juun.J: street tailoring from Seoul to Paris
Three years of military uniform, a Seoul label renamed for Paris in 2007, and a method he calls the diversion of the classic. Juun.J explained.
SECND SLF: post-souvenir Americana
An anonymous founder, a phrase — post-souvenir Americana — and deliberately short production runs. SECND SLF explained.
Willy Chavarria: dignity, cut extra large
From Huron, California to Paris Fashion Week in ten years. The shoulder, the casting, and why you should take your normal size.
Our Legacy: Stockholm, and the fabric first
Twenty years, no runway show, and a design process that starts with the cloth rather than the cut. Our Legacy explained, with sizing and where to start.
Fear of God Essentials: five shapes, done properly
Five garments, one palette, and a hoodie treated as a silhouette rather than a blank. What Fear of God Essentials actually is, plus sizing and care.
Misbhv: Warsaw, techno, and clothes built for the room
Founded in Warsaw in 2014, Misbhv turned Eastern European club culture into a label with real tailoring underneath. What it is, and what to buy.
Studio Nicholson: Clothes, Not Fashion
Nick Wakeman has spent fifteen years designing without interest in trends, four or five fitting sessions per garment, and an unabashed devotion to how elderly Japanese men dress. What that discipline looks like on the rail.
Chopova Lowena: Folklore, Clipped Together
Two Central Saint Martins graduates, a stack of Bulgarian folk textiles and a rock-climbing carabiner. How Chopova Lowena's cult skirt happened, and why the house keeps working with artisans in Bulgaria instead of a factory.
Ann Demeulemeester: The Poetry of Black
She sent Patti Smith three handmade shirts as a teenager, showed with the Antwerp Six from the back of a truck, and built one of fashion's most devotional black wardrobes. Where the house stands now, under a new creative director.
RHUDE: Rhuigi Villaseñor's Los Angeles
Manila to Los Angeles, a self-taught designer, a short and consequential tenure at Bally, and a label that is really about tailoring. What RHUDE is and what to buy.
Protocol Index: the Seoul studio rebuilding the basics
A Seoul design studio that dissects hoodies and sweatpants and rebuilds them as engineered constructions. What Protocol Index is, where it came from, and what to buy first.
